MattBites

You either love it or you don't.

It's Breakfast. It's Dessert. It's Gone.

Or, alternate title: BE QUIET FOR A MINUTE, IS THAT POSSIBLE? KTHANKSBI!

This weekend Adam and I are hosting a very special guest. To say she's talented would really be an understatement -- this woman is simply amazing.  But between you and me (and you'll really keep this between us, I just know it) I'm a little worried that I'll never be able to get a word in with her. If you know her, she talks and talks and talks and talks and really won't stop.  And just when you think she has nothing left to say she starts all over again. And on and on and on and on and on. About stuff. Just stuff. Enough, I always say, let me speak, woman!

Oh my darling K, I'm only kidding. I can't wait for you to get here.

We have all sorts of nifty things planned for our guest. We'll go apple picking this weekend, check out the sights around town, probably head out to an afterhours and dance until 6 am, you know, regular every day stuff.  And thanks to my wonderful partner, we'll be able to indulge in a little French Toast Bread Pudding for breakfast, which I must say is one of the most indulgent things I've had the pleasure of tasting recently. Well, it wasn't so much taste as inhale, as both dishes were gone so quickly that I was simultaneously embarrassed and disgusted for being such a pig.

But in the presence of our weekend guest I promise to be civilized and refined. Not like she'll notice anyway, she'll be chatty cathy the entire time.

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French Toast Bread Pudding from Bon Appétit
This is a great way to use up an entire loaf of Challah. This recipe is from Bon Appétit, a magazine that has been on the brain lately. And not only because I was seated next to the lovely Kristine Kidd at a wonderful event this past Monday evening. You know why.

Ingredients
12 ounces challah or other egg bread with crust, torn into 3/4-inch pieces
7 large eggs
2 1/2 cups whole or reduced-fat (2%) milk
1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3/4 teaspoon freshly grated whole nutmeg or ground nutmeg

1/2 cup chopped toasted pecans
Warm maple syrup

Preparation
Butter 11x7x2-inch glass baking dish. Place bread in dish. Whisk eggs and next 4 ingredients in medium bowl to blend; pour over bread. Using spatula, lightly press down on bread to moisten completely. Cover with foil and chill overnight.

Place foil-covered dish in cold oven. Set oven at 350°F and bake 30 minutes. Remove foil and continue to bake until pudding is puffed and golden brown, about 35 minutes longer. Spoon pudding onto plates, sprinkle with toasted nuts, and serve with warm maple syrup.

 

makes 6 servings or if no one is home or looking it's for one person.

 

Chimi-Love

Would you like to see me whimper and wince? Then ask me to join you on official Gourmet Magazine business in July but instruct me to keep it under wraps until the September issue hits the stands. Luckily I'm actually very good with discretion and secrets. But it gets hard when you discover something in the process that you instantly fall in love with and can't disclose it. Until now, that is.

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Blessed by a temporary afternoon reprieve from the hot humid weather, I spent a Saturday afternoon running around with my friend Marisa while in New York City last month. As Chief Research Editor for Gourmet Magazine she asked if I'd join her as she fact-checked a few locations for an upcoming story. Being the professional editor that she is I was only allowed to know we were checking addresses, tasting some food and nothing more. However, after stopping by a few taco trucks a developing sense of the subject matter became quite obvious. And now that the September issue is out and I've read Robb Walsh's feature on taco trucks and a story on Dominican food from Junot Diaz I know exactly what we were doing.

While I've only recently been introduced to Dominican food, tacos are in my DNA. Combine one of my favorite foods with convenience and portability and you've created a perfect experience. That's why I love taco trucks; it's a culinary experience set in an environment that strips away any sense of pretense or romance. Focus on the tacos and the sights and sounds of everyday life become the setting. It's an act I appreciate yet one I clearly don't take advantage of enough. It seems that here in Los Angeles we're always in our cars, zipping from point A to point B. I simply must break this sad pattern and hit those trucks! Thank you Mr. Walsh, as always.

But back to New York. We stopped at Tacos Express at 145th and Broadway for tacos al pastor, washed down by a tepid horchata as we sat on steps and shared some decent Mexican food. In case you haven't noticed, I'm a big boy and can easily pound down a few tacos; it took great strength to sample and not gorge myself that afternoon.

After checking intersections of a few places in Washington Heights (taco trucks don't have street addresses but apparently some have web sites!) we made our way to the Bronx. The last on the list to check was a Chimichurri truck on the corner of Msgr Francis J Kett and W 204th Street. A Chimichurri Truck? Truck? It was a phrase that instantly aroused and confused me. Having spent time in Argentina I thought I knew chimichurri, the flavorful mixture of olive oil, garlic and herbs that is a condiment for grilled meats. What I was about to discover was something just as brilliant and delicious, something that left me begging for more.

The Dominican Chimichurri.

We all have those food moments, don't we? Those ever-important moments of culinary discovery. Ok, perhaps you're a chef or super well-traveled and know all there is to know, but this boy is still finding so many things out there that continually amaze me. And when we make those discoveries do we curse the gods for keeping the food in question away for so long and leaving our encounter to chance? Or do we praise them for finally putting us together? I'm still trying to figure that out– I'll get back to you on that one.

So, that Chimichurri. Latin, yes, but this Dominican delight has nothing to do with its Argentine counterpart other than sharing a name. In the simplest of terms chimichurri is a Dominican hamburger. But a burger of the highest, messiest order and one that left me swooning and pining and all those other hyperbolic terms we love to use. Imagine a soft bun, a patty, grilled tomatoes and onions, cabbage (sometimes quickly pickled) and dollops of mayonnaise and ketchup. It's messy, greasy, and one of the tastiest things to pass my lips in such a long time.

The next day, while having a Sunday afternoon beer in the East Village with my sister, brother-in-law and friend Carolina, I let it slip that I discovered a Chimichurri.

"What were you doing in my neighbrhood?" Carolina asked. I told her I was under a self-imposed order of secrecy about the details but that I could reveal my new obsession with this messy burger.

"Ah! You've discovered the pleasures of Chimis!" announced Carolina, and with that she graciously took me under her wing and gave me some background about my new favorite snack. Born in New York and raised in the Dominican Republic before returning to NYC, I met Caro through my friend Lito in San Francisco. As we drank Hefeweizen and I asked a million questions, I realized this was all too good to be true. I've discovered one of the world's best foods and I have my own personal culinary and cultural attaché? Pinch me!

Carolina informed me that chimichurri trucks are common in Santo Domingo and easily found all along El Melecon, the avenue that runs along the ocean. She also tells me that they are easy to find in New York, particularly in the South Bronx and Washington Heights, but we both lamented that I may not have much luck back in Los Angeles. I told her that I'd have to find a recipe and make it at home because this chimi business was too good to only live in a memory. That's when Caro told me that she doesn't make them at home. But then again why would you when they're so easy to find?

"For me, part of the charm of chimis is getting one in the street at 3 am. It's perfect post-prandial food – greasy, tasty and a challenge to your motor skills (to avoid the inevitable drips on your clothes)," she said.

Dripping messy shirts? Greasy? 3 am? It's like she was seducing me with her words!

I've since learned to create a pretty close stand-in of the Chimichurri burger with a few alterations. And while it's not the same as standing on the street at 1am or sharing one with my friend Marisa on a train platform in Washington Heights and sipping on a hyper-sweetened fruit drink, it does come pretty damn close. And for that I'm thankful.

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Chimichurri: A Dominican Hamburger

adapted from Tía Clara's site at Cocina Dominicana with gracious advice from Carolina!

It was a bit of a hunt to find recipes for this online in English, but it's certainly not difficult to make. Messy is key, and blending the sauce ahead of time makes for easy assembly. This month's Gourmet Magazine's recipe instructs a quick sauté of the cabbage but it will make a huge tasty difference if you do a very quick pickle of the cabbage in vinegar ahead of time. But it's not necessary.

Ingredients
4 hamburger buns
2 pounds of ground beef
1/2 teaspoon of garlic, crushed
1 large onion, sliced into rings
1 large onion, diced
1 bell pepper, diced
2 large tomatoes, sliced
2 cups shredded cabbage
1 tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons of oil
salt and pepper
oregano
ketchup
mayonnaise

Method
1. Mix meat, worcestershire sauce, garlic, onion cubes, bell pepper, and add a pinch of salt, a pinch of oregano and a pinch of pepper. Divide meat into four portions and form 4 patties. Brush a stove-top grill with some of the oil and heat. Grill the patties, rotating until they are well done.

2. Briefly grill tomatoes and onion rings. Turn down the heat at its minimun and briefly cook the cabbage. Reapply some oil to the grill and warm up the bread.

3. Assemble the hamburger and garnish with ketchup and mayonnaise.

Sunday and The Perfect Lunch

Jamón serrano, an heirloom tomato, a yellow peach, some fresh mozzarella and a baguette. Oh, and a sprinkle of sea salt and a dash of vinegar and extra virgin olive oil.

There's really not much more to say.

Panuchos, Hints and Family Drama

Many years ago, after months of swearing and cursing to the powers that be, I was graciously offered an assistant. My work load had become too unmanageable and it was deemed a good time to bring on someone to help. After a few basic interviews I decided on a lovely girl by the name of Maria*. Full of smiles, Maria and I developed an immediate rapport and she was a great employee– when we worked, that is. We spent much of our time chatting in Spanish (mine broken, thank you very much) while I listened to tales of her family that rivaled any overly dramatic novela on television. There were disappearing family members who reappeared in strange places with new names, the closeted gay nephew who kept his nightly drag performances hidden from the family, the lonely and nosey spinster aunt, a stoic and overbearing Catholic mother who ran the show, numeous forbidden loves and a cast of colorful characters that added to the already unreal familial history. I loved hearing about her family.


I always looked forward to seeing her every morning. I had so many questions!  How could her aunt not notice her nephew's perfectly plucked eyebrows and stained lips without being suspicious? Did her cousin really work for the government as a mercenary before becoming a baker? Was the family home back in El Salvador as beautiful as the photos she shared with me and how soon could I visit? Many times her tales would spill over into our lunch hour, where we'd continue them over plates of pupusas piled high with cortido. Before meeting her I never really explored Salvadorian food, but she seemed to know every cafe and pupuseria in the Southland. It didn't take long to realize how much I loved pupusas, those little cheese- and meat-filled tortillas that are served with a vinegar cabbage slaw on top. Do you ever have those moments when you discover someone or something exists that you wish you knew about sooner?  That was my experience with Maria and pupusas.


Fast forward to last month. I had a freelance job shooting some comida Yucateca and other than what I've ordered in a restaurant or learned from Rick Bayless I shamefully don't know too much about it.  I've never been to the Yucatan (hint hint, my dearest Adam!) and my family history is Northern Mexico with a cuisine all its own. Of course that opened a floodgate to my obsessive ways and I had to research more so that I would feel comfortable with it and wouldn't you know I stumbled onto Panuchos, a cousin to the Central American pupusas. Crunchy corn tortillas are fried with a layer of smooth black beans inside and topped with various condiments like tomatoes, lime wedges, pickled onions or avocados. They're usually antojitos meaning appetizers or small snacks and they're utterly heavenly and easy to eat. They all but disappeared immediately–always a good sign if you ask me.  And while it was fantastic discovering all the other major dishes of the Yucatan, panuchos have become a favorite at our house.

Panuchos

This recipe comes from two of my favorite ladies, Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken. They're delightful gals and have great restaurants here in Los Angeles. I've explored a few panucho recipes and really dig this one. Also, if you're near a Latin market you may find masa harina already made in dough form; it saves some time. And if you don't want to go through the effort of making black beans you can use a high quality canned version.


Ingredients
2 cups finely ground masa harina
1 3/8 cups cold water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup refried black beans, pureed
2/3 cup vegetable oil
2 cups shredded roasted chicken
1 cup roasted tomato salsa
1 cup picked red onions, see recipe
1 cup avocado, peeled, seeded and sliced


Method
In a large bowl combine first three ingredients and stir until smooth. The dough should be slightly sticky and form a ball when pressed together. To test, flatten a small piece of dough between your palms. If the edges crack, add water to the dough, a tablespoon at a time, until a test piece does not crack.

Divide the masa into 12 pieces and form each into a ball.  Press or roll each into a 4-inch circle.  Heat a dry cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium-high heat and cook the tortillas.  When cool enough to handle, pick up each puffed tortilla and make a 1 1/2-inch slit about 1/4-inch from the edge to make a pocket, being careful not to cut all the way through the tortilla.  Puree the refried black beans and stuff 2 teaspoons of the bean puree in each pocket.  Flatten to seal and spread the beans evenly.  Reserve the stuffed tortillas and cover with a barely damp cloth.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over high heat.  Fry the stuffed tortillas in batches, adding more oil as necessary, until they are a little crisp around the edges but still pliable.  Drain on paper towels.  Then place on a tray and keep warm in a 200 degree oven.
 
Heat the chicken in a small pan over low heat.  Remove the tray of panuchos from the oven.  Top each with a tablespoon salsa. Sprinkle on the chicken and pickled red onions and top each with a small avocado slice.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

Serves six.


For the Yucatan Pickled Red Onions:
This recipe comes from Epicurious and is so simple. I wouldn't skip it as the vinegary onions are perfect with the fried corn flavor of the panucho. Plus they turn a very pretty shade of pink. Probably like Maria's cousin's lipstick.

Ingredients
2 red onions, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup orange juice
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano or thyme
salt and pepper to taste

Method
Place onions in a saucepan, add water to cover, bring to a boil and remove from heat. Drain and rinse in cold water to stop the cooking process. Place the onions in a non-reactive container with the remaining ingredients and allow to sit for several hours before serving. They keep up to one week in the refrigerator.

Makes about 3 cups.

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*Maria is not her real name. Since I've blabbed on and on about her personal life I figured I'd at least change her name to protect what little privacy I've left her. And also, hopefully soon, I'll be able to learn all about the food of the Yucatán in Mérida, Mexico. Not that I'd ever pressure my husband into taking me somewhere through something public like a blog or anything.

Secret Message To My Partner : Adam my dear I am going to wake you up every day at 5:05am with new and important bits of information about Mérida and I will not stop until we visit. Consider yourself warned.

"We're Serving Hot Fruit!"

Does anyone remember the scene from the television show "Strangers With Candy" where the tremendously unpopular Geraldine Antonia Blank (otherwise known as Gerri), tries to woo her classmates into coming to her house for a party?

"Anyone coming to my party Friday night? We're serving hot fruit!"

While the phrase sounds odd out of context and perhaps a bit unpleasant, here's something that sounds good: grilled fruit.

Ribs and chicken aren't the only things that should get grill time. There's nothing quicker and easier than slicing a fruit or two, tossing it on the grill and dressing it with a glaze, syrup or a sprinkle of brown sugar and cinnamon. It's the perfect topping for a scoop of ice cream and quite a delicious and unusual way of serving summer's stone fruit. The heat brings out the sweet sugary flavors and the grill lends a tiny bit of outdoor panache.

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Grilled Nectarines with Honey-Balsamic Glaze
This recipe is from Bon Appétit and has always served me well. However, in the photo I made a Mint-Honey Syrup which pooled in the hollow fruit quite nicely and was all tasty and deeeeelicious. But then again I love mint anything. I also didn't use any crème fraîche because I had none. Don't you feel sorry for me? Boo hoo.

Ingredients
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 8-ounce container crème fraîche
6 firm but ripe nectarines, halved, pitted    

       

Method
Whisk 1/2 cup honey, vinegar, and vanilla in small bowl. Whisk crème fraîche and remaining 2 tablespoons honey in medium bowl to blend. (Glaze and crème fraîche mixture can be made 1 day ahead. Cover separately. Refrigerate crème fraîche mixture. Rewhisk both before using.)

Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Matt's note: make sure your grill is free of burnt meat bits. Brush nectarines generously with half of glaze. Grill until heated through, turning occasionally, about 4 minutes. Arrange 2 nectarine halves, cut side up, on each plate. Drizzle with remaining glaze. Spoon some crème fraîche mixture into center of each nectarine half and serve.

from Bon Appétit

Plum Crazy

I've often thought about why the little plum never garners my attention as perhaps it should. Is it because I tend to associate them with prunes? Or is it because I really only buy them once a year when their skin is paper soft and they are close to bursting with ripeness? Perhaps. Maybe it's because in the summer frenzy I'm occupied by peak season peaches and unbelievably sweet ears of corn and everything else just gets ignored.

Plums, I'm sorry and starting today it will never happen again.

Plums are considered drupes, or stone fruit, and are all related to that big happy family that includes peaches, nectarines, apricots, even almonds. There are tons of varieties and they grow in just about every color you could imagine. Just don't imagine florescent blue because you'll be out of luck. Anyway, there are three categories of plums: Japanese, Damson and European, and their shape, size and colors can vary greatly. Some are perfect for out of hand eating, others are too tart and best for pickling and canning, and some are grown specifically for old people, er, um, I mean for prunes.

(And yes, a prune is a dried plum. Just like chipotles are dried smoked jalapeños. And like how Britney was once a really fun pop star and now quasi-alien with remarkably hideous footwear. Heck, even I can wear a wig better than that.)

I began to really think about plums this past spring when our fruit trees began to bloom. The tiny fruit babies spend months clinging to the tree before they ripen and fall or become tasty snacks for all the birds who set up camp in our backyard. Without fail, the tree says "I'm Ready!" and before I know it I am faced with pounds of fruit. I hate to waste it and end up taking bags of plums to the office. This year I still plan on sharing but I wanted to be prepared with an arsenal of recipes so I could actually cook with plums instead of sitting on the grass gorging myself. When the window of ripeness opens up this year I'll be good to go!

Grilled Ribs with Plum Barbecue Sauce

My friend Loren gave me this recipe, and I must say it's a nice break from the standard rib sauce that appears everywhere this summer. It has a little smoky heat and sweetness and that mellows out with cooking and it's perfect with an Asian-style slaw.

For the ribs:
3 lbs pork loin back ribs
salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Rub salt and pepper over both sides of the ribs. Place the ribs in foil-lined shallow roasting pan and bake for 45 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat your barbecue grill and make the sauce, below.

For the sauce:
1 cup chopped yellow onion
1 cup diced red bell pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 pounds large red plums, peeled, pitted and cut into chunks
2 tablespoons chipotle peppers in adobo sauce
1/2 cup chicken stock
3/4 cup tomato paste
1/2 cup dark corn syrup
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Sauté the chopped onions and diced red peppers in olive oil in a medium saucepan. Cook the onions until translucent. Add the plums and sauté for 2 minutes and then add the chipotle peppers and chicken stock. Cook for another 3 minutes on medium heat. Remove the pot from heat and put the mixture in a blender and cover and purée until smooth. Return the puréed mixture to the saucepan and cook on medium-high heat and add tomato paste. Add corn syrup, soy sauce, honey, and Dijon mustard to the saucepan, mix well and cook until heated, about 5 minutes.

Grill the ribs for 15 minutes over medium coals, covered. Brush both sides of the ribs with the plum barbecue sauce and grill until browned, about 10 minutes.

Can you believe I haven't yet written anything about my experiences with Perfect Scoop by our pal David Lebovitz? I think that because I am constantly emailing him with my life's dilemmas and boy-gossip (thank god I cannot see him rolling his eyes all the way from France otherwise I'd be crushed) that I forget to write about the fact that yes, we went and bought an Cuisinart ICE Automatic Ice Cream Maker based on his recommendations because the other 2 I own weren't enough and yes, his book is the best thing ever and yes, within a week Adam made 5 batches of ice cream from his book and yes, you are reading the world's longest run-on sentence!

Not only is it a brilliant book filled with everything we love about David, but damn it if this book isn't a great resource for all things ice cream. I'm constantly amazed about how much David managed to include and if you think of something you'll most likely find it inside Perfect Scoop. I mean, he writes about Cajeta!

Summer is around the corner. If you don't yet own this book then by all means buy it. Run to the bookstore, order it online, whatever! You must have this book.

Plum Granita from Perfect Scoop: Ice Creams, Sorbets, Granitas, and Sweet Accompaniments by David Lebovitz

1 1/2 pounds plums

1 3/4 cups water

1/2 cup sugar

Slice the plums in half and remove the pits. Cut each plum into 8 pieces and put them into a medium, nonreactive saucepan with the water. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally. for 8 minutes, or until tender. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar until dissolved. Let cool to room temperature.

Once the mixture is cool, purée it in a blender or food processor until smooth. Pour the mixture into a dish and place it in the freezer. Begin checking it after about 1 hour. Once it begins to freeze around the edges, take a fork and stir the mixture, breaking up the frozen parts near the edges into smaller chunks and raking them toward the center.

Return the dish to the freezer, then check the mixture ever 30 minutes afterward, stirring each time and breaking up any large chunks into small pieces with a fork, until you have beautiful, fine crystals of homemade granita.

Matt on Grilling

This weekend kicks off the grilling season. All over the country barbecue grills, Webers, hibachis and iron smokers will emerge from a long rusty winter slumber and come alive with heat, delivering offerings of grilled fare that satisfy our most primal urges.

Ok, who am I kidding? I started grilling weeks ago! And while I'm no expert I do know my way around a grill. The good old Texas boy in me always surfaces the minute spring and summer roll around and before you know it I'm ignoring the oven and spending every night cooking al fresco. Over the years I've learned some good lessons (blanching ahead saves time) and some bad lessons (keep an extinguisher handy or else) but there's always room for improvement. Below are a few things I've learned over the years:

1. Arm hair, while serving a protective biological purpose 10,000 years ago, isn't entirely necessary. One can live a relatively healthy life without it. Eyebrows are an entirely different matter.

2. While one might believe that outdoor grilling is best suited for meat, I've got some news for you: this meat eater finds veggies and meat alternatives absolutely brilliant choices for outdoor grilling. Then again, anything with a smokey char is a-ok in my book. It's not unusual for me to skip meat entirely when cooking on the grill.

3. There is a difference between barbecue and grilling. Grilling is directly over high heat and done quickly. Barbecuing is slow and over indirect heat. I'll repeat: Grilling is directly over high heat and done quickly. Barbecuing is slow and over indirect heat. There is a difference. Learn it live it love it.

And while I prefer a charcoal grill, a gas grill works in a pinch.

4. Rubs, sauces, marinades and finishes are all matters of personal preference. I bow to the Argentines when it comes to my personal favorite: nothing but salt and pepper. But you should start off with a high quality meat if you plan on minimal seasoning. But I don't have to tell you that.

5. I completely respect the master grill authorities–I own most of their books! However, my true grill education comes from my father who can advise on heat levels, times, and the exact number of briquets and wood chips needed for a particular method. Thank you, Dad!

6. I find barbeque tastes better when enjoyed with the following musical selections: Los Super Seven, Lucinda Williams, Laurindo Almeida, Willie Nelson, Marvin Gaye, Nina Simone or Freddy Fender. Feel free to add your own.

7. You've heard this said a bazillion times before, but there's a reason for that. Having the proper grilling utensils will really help you in the long run. And  yes, outdoor tools are different than your indoor toys. Longer handles, thermometers, basting brushes and tongs built for grilling are worth the investment. Especially cute fancy color-coordinated aprons.

8. A quick blanching in the kitchen ahead of time is key when grilling vegetables. Squash, green beans, and onions will cook faster without burning.

9. I wouldn't dream of eating grilled food without wine. My friend Paul of the blog Champion Wines says "Grilled food supports big flavors in wine - a hearty red like a Côtes du Rhone (Eric Texier 2004 Côtes du Rhone) or a not over-the-top Zinfandel (Dashe Cellars 2004 Dry Creek Zinfandel) would work great. For whites, something fruity with nice acidity (Leitz 2005 Riesling Dragonstone) is a good balance to sweet and spicy flavors."

10. No matter your method or what you're cooking, cooking outdoors is an experience best enjoyed with friends.

Now hand me another rib and let me grab another glass of wine. Cheers everyone!

   

Well it's Friday and tomorrow is Cinco de Mayo. It was never a day we celebrated growing up; in fact it was just another quasi-holiday that gave everyone a pass to drink tons of beer and eat a lot of food..  And of course I see nothing wrong with that. I think Homesick Texan offers the most eloquent explanation of the "holiday" - she's right on the money.

We're spending our Cinco De Mayo at home testing six Yucatecan recipes for a magazine, and depending on our success I'll be writing about the experience. Oh who am I kidding? I'll be happy to share the mishaps and mistakes, too. Ain't no shame in my game!

But one word: Sopaipillas. Hot damn.

But no matter what happens, there's really no way to celebrate an Mexican-inspired event without a big bowl of guacamole. It's quite simply one of my favorite things on earth and I laugh about how much I disliked it as a child. Funny that. I know everyone has a million recipes for their favorite type, but I really only have a few rules when making mine:

- Less is More (ingredients, not quantity because you'll inevitably run out)

- Chunky, not blended

- Interrupt the direct path from my mouth to bowl and you very well may lose an arm

Happy Cinco De Mayo friends! And if you're drinking do not do not do not do not do not do not drive a car!

Guacamole Autentico
This recipe comes from the California Avocado folks, and it's pretty much on the money. I tend to be shy when it comes to ground cumin - too much and it's all you taste. But adjust seasonings as you see fit, then grab some chips and a beer and knock yourself out.

4 ripe avocados, peeled, seeded
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 ripe, medium Roma tomato, seeded, diced
½ cup minced sweet white onion
2 serrano chilies, seeded, minced
¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves
4 Tablespoons fresh lime juice
Hot pepper sauce, sea salt, white pepper to taste

Cut avocado in large chunks and mash coarsely in large bowl with a fork. Add remaining ingredients and blend gently - leaving some small chunks is fine. Taste and adjust seasoning with more pepper sauce, salt and pepper if desired.

Also, let me add: I like a few more serranos in mine. And if you're one of those people that says - HEAVEN FORBID - "Ewwwwwwwwwwww cilantro tastes like soap blech whine waaaa waaaa waaaaa" then wipe that look off your face and omit it. Better yet, pass it over here. I love the stuff.

P.S. Catherine, thank you :)

Growing up in Galveston, Texas with parents who love good food gave me a million food memories. Chief among them are shrimp po-boys, fried oysters, endless Tex Mex and one little particular sandwich I'd always insist on grabbing from the Old Strand Emporium. Without giving too much of a history lesson about this "interesting" island off the gulf coast, Galveston was home to a booming port and bustling city during the end of the 19th century. While many things have come and gone, the Emporium is still there. Think high ceilings, Victorian-style general store with tons of candy. You can see why it was one of my favorite places to visit as a kid, but it wasn't for the sweets or soda. It was for one particular sandwich that has been stuck in my head for over 30 years.

This sandwich-that-I-pine-for is like no other. Wrapped in foil and meant as a grab-and-go selection, it was a savory, salty spread layered between a fresh baguette. It was sweet, a bit hot, with a salami-esque and relish-style flavor that begged to be enjoyed with a cold Dr. Pepper (or Mr. Pibb, even better!) My mouth waters just thinking of it. I've asked just about every Galvestonian I know, including family members, but the response is usually the same: "Oh, I remember those sandwiches! Sure were good. I have no idea what it was."

Of course that's never the answer you want to hear, so after the trail went cold I decided I was going to have to pick up the phone and call.

"I know this sounds crazy, but my parents would buy a particular sandwich from the Emporium when I was a kid. This was 30 years ago and I have no idea if you still make it," I asked.

"Oh, sure, of course. We still make it. And it's a secret recipe. About the only thing I can tell you is that it's made with Chow Chow. And that's it." replied the voice on the other end.

My initial reaction was frustration, but then it hit me: she said Chow Chow! Knowing this I could rely on memory to get close enough to replicate it!

And then it hit me again. What the hell is Chow Chow?

I had to stop for a moment and run through the list of marinades, dressings, pickles and relishes that litter my brain. It wasn't easy, but after making a few funny faces and scratching my head the secret ingredient came up and I began to remember it as a Southern thing. Some sort of vegetable and pickle relish that can be made with anything on hand, although cabbage and onions are key. It's a familiar taste and just slightly different. This would explain the sweet and tangy flavor of the sandwich I grew up loving and I was going to do my best to make it again. From memory.

The Chow Chow mission started and I found a very basic recipe for it but wouldn't you know little old impatient me would have to wait a month before tasting it. Because it's a vegetable relish it takes 4 weeks to pickle, not to mention the week it took me to track down a batch of green tomatoes. But waiting did the trick, and my first bite of my homemade chow chow relish made me wonder why it wasn't a regular ingredient in my cupboard or fridge. Green tomatoes, green cabbage, red bell peppers. onions, spices, sugar and vinegar create a luscious, tangy, crunchy slaw that is neither too sweet nor too salty. It's just perfect and it stays crunchy, and the large dice of vegetables means it's not mushy and pretty damn hearty. I ate half a jar just standing there before I could even start the sandwich.

I love the moments of discovery you can find in the kitchen. What originally started out as an attempt to recreate a sandwich led me to what I might consider one of the best condiments I've ever tasted. Over the course of a few days I discovered that chow chow is phenomenal on hamburgers and Adam found out how delicious it is on a hot dog. I can't wait to serve it alongside barbecued meats like ribs and chicken. But it doesn't have to be all meat – it's even great on top of plain white rice. I'm sad to report that the jars of my new favorite relish are almost gone. Time to track down more green tomatoes!

Chow Chow Relish
I've read that Chow Chow was perfect way to save random vegetables from a farmer's harvest as it can be made with a mixture of almost anything. This recipe features unripe green tomatoes but a quick google search will yield a million variations. I recommend a rather good-sized chop here as you can always go smaller once your Chow Chow is ready. You can't go backwards. And my next batch may include a few chili pepper flakes for added heat. This recipe for Chow Chow Relish makes 4 pints.

Ingredients
4 cups chopped cabbage
3 cups chopped cauliflower
2 cups chopped green tomatoes
2 cups chopped yellow onion
1 cup chopped green bell peppers
1 cup chopped red bell peppers
2 1/2 cups white vinegar
1 1/2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons dry mustard
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
  1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
2 teaspoons celery seeds

 

Directions
1. Combine the chopped cabbage, cauliflower, bell peppers, onions and green tomatoes in a large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and let the mixture stand 4 to 6 hours in a cool place.
 
2. Drain the vegetable mixture well. Combine the vinegar, sugar, mustard, turmeric, ginger, celery seeds and the mustard seeds in a large saucepan. Simmer 10 minutes. Add vegetable mixture and simmer 10 minutes longer. Bring to boil.
 
3. Pack, boiling hot, into hot sterilized jars, leaving 1/4-inch head space. Adjust lids and process 10 minutes in boiling water bath. Let rest in a cool, dark place for 4 weeks before opening.

Recipe adapted from Pat in Phoenix...thank you!

Chow Chow Salami Spread
Ok, so it may not be exactly like the sandwich of my youth but it comes pretty damn close. And even if it didn't it sure tasted good. I'm not trying to malign salami on sandwiches, but am I the only person who finds it hard to eat if it's not sliced paper thin? You take one bite and end up pulling it out of the sandwich if you don't make the effort to bite all the way through, and then the slice flops around and hits your chin and you end up looking silly as you shove it into your mouth with your fingers. Anyone? Anyone? Just me? Ok, nevermind. This spread is tangy, flavorful, and easy to eat. Too easy. Perfect for picnics. Or any time of day, say breakfastlunchordinner.

Ingredients
4 ounces sliced salami
1 cup chow chow relish, drained (see recipe above)
1 cup shredded provolone cheese
2 tablespoons mayonnaise

Directions
In a food processor process salami until it's fully chopped into small pieces. Remove from processor and repeat with the chow chow relish. Once processed remove the relish and do the same with the provolone cheese to create smaller pieces. Once all ingredients are processed combine them in a bowl with 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise and mix thoroughly. Depending on the moisture and age of the salami you can add more mayonnaise or a tablespoon of the chow chow brine if your sandwich spread is too dry. Spread onto a sliced baguette and enjoy.